Trujillo "the most atractive town in Extramadura"

... according to the Rough Guide, and we found no reason to disagree with this. East of Cacares, we decided to stay the night here, following the advice of both Javiers, one who suggested a place to eat, the other who said "the food is bad but the storks are worth seeing.!" Having eaten a 3 course lunch in Arange, we feel happy to risk it.

Through our usual last minute booking method (see earlier post) we have found the most exquisite little hotel in a sixteenth century stone building with a courtyard restaurant. The Posada Dos Orillas (Inn of Two Owls) is just above the enormous Plaza Major and although it has only two stars (probably because it has no lift) it has all modern comforts and charm besides. We receive a very warm welcome and indulge in a chilled glass of wine in the courtyard before a shower and a siesta.

It's a balmy Saturday evening and the Plaza Mayor is not only huge, but packed with Spanish families out for the evening -weekenders from further south, or even Madrid, quite possibly, as the new motorways have made access much easier. We've been away almost a week, and Merida is, so far, the only place we've seen another English speaking tourist (and they were Americans.)

We stroll around a few bars, not very hungry, watching the nightlife. After a while we decide against anything major on the gastronomic front but go for a media racion of Torta del Casar - a local soft cheese a bit like a very gooey camembert in style, but much more tasty and very creamy. It arrives fridge-cold but in minutes is running all over the plate. Yum yum. The croquetas (an addiction of Shareen's) are disappointing, but a timely reminder that greed comes before a bad plate of food...

So here, true to Javier's word, is a stork: